Mark Bitterman knows how to write.
Listen to his words, "Gradually the essence of my life took physical form: a lifelong pursuit of food and travel, curated in salt."
This wonderful book is at once both a historic and scientific reference guide to salt as well as a poetic expression of Mark Bitterman's passionate interest in it. Most of the stunning photography is his and shows that the creation of this book was a work of love.
Once you have read it, you will never look at or taste salt in the same way again.
He steers us away from the bland white industrial salt we find in cardboard boxes on supermarket shelves loaded with anti-caking aluminum and bleaching agents towards the artisanal all natural salts, still full of life-giving minerals and in colors of the rainbow.
"Let fall dark crystals of Cyprus black flake salt on medallions of seared pork and plantains and you will feel the turgid rush of Incan discovery."
The first part of the book covers the history of salt and how and where it is produced, including a valuable reference guide to over 150 artisinal salts.
"South African Pearl is basically a snowball of powdered salt. As you bite, the salt's pearlike shape vanishes before you can identify its presence; only the finest film of salt remains, and this, too, dissolves instantly into whatever moisture is present, be it your food or your mouth."
The second half of the book is recipes. The first one that I am going to try? Soft Pretzels with Hickory Smoked Salt! When I work my way to the recipes made on salt blocks, my first try will be the Fried Bacon and Eggs.
I was so enamored with this book that I went to visit his newly opened store, The Meadow, in New York City. It's small and packed with fresh flowers, chocolates, all kinds of salt varieties.....and apricot colored salt blocks to cook on.
I learned from reading Salted
You can also buy large chunks of salt and finely shave them with these salt microplanes.
Between the book, Salted, and the store, The Meadow, you come away with a vastly improved understanding of the most common and most essential ingredient in cuisine. It may be a crazy idea, but I would love to see them go one step further and open a restaurant or cafe dedicated to celebrating all the many uses and types of salt. Salt Block Cafe?!
Salted
by Mark Bitterman
The Meadow, 523 Hudson Street, New York, New York
The Meadow, 3731 N. Mississippi Avenue, Portland, Oregon
Recipe from SALTED:
Honey Ice Cream With Sugar Maple Smoked Sea Salt
Ingredients:
2 vanilla beans
3 cups half-and-half
1/2 cup aromatic honey, such as eucalyptus, avocado, or heather
4 extra large egg yolks
2 two-finger pinches maple smoked sea salt
Method:
1. Cut the vanilla beans in half lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds. Put the seeds and the pods in a medium saucepan with the half-and-half and honey and stir to disolve the honey. Heat over medium heat until tiny bubbles form around the edges of the pan, about 8 minutes.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool covered for 1 hour. Remove the vanilla pods. Mix in the egg yolks and cook over medium to low heat, stirring constantly, until lightly thickened and a thermometer reads 170 degrees (about 10 minutes).
3. Remove from the heat and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled. Transfer to an ice cream maker and make according to the manufacturer's instructions. Scoop out and serve the ice cream. Serve sprinkled with a little smoked salt.
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